Hello,

We have recently built a pond in our backyard. I recently read in your q&a section, that I could use the solar salt pellets for my water softner for salting the water in the pond. Is this correct?

Also my pond dimensions are 20' long by 10' wide and 24"deep. I purchased a salt-testing kit and determined that it is in need of salt. There are no plants in now, but do plan on putting them in. We have 3 tier waterfall with a 10,000 gallon pump running it right now. Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated. How often should I check the salt levels (and ammonia & nitrate, etc.)?

I have been told to only feed the fish once a week. By doing this, it will encourage the fish to eat the algae that builds up...your thoughts on this.

I was also told to stop feeding the fish entirely once the temperature stays below 50 degrees and that using a bubbler and heater during the winter, the fish should do fine...your thoughts on this.

Hi, Barb,

In order of appearance:

1) Pond salt from the pet store is ferociously expensive. 99.9% pure water softener salt, often marketed as "Solar Salt" is cheap and safe. Avoid machine-formed pellets and salt with stabilizers or anti-rust chemicals.,

2) Your pond gallonage is calculated by LxWxDx7.48 gal/cu.ft. 20x10x2=400cu.ft.x7.48=2892 gallons. Ideally, you should be running your full pond volume through a capacious biofilter once every 30-45 minutes. In other words, for optimum bioconversion, you need to move between 3000 to 5000 gallons per hour through your filter, which needs to be large enough to handle the flow without backing up or channeling. If you have ambitions to keep koi, you need an efficient bioconverter. If you do not have one, either come to the Trade Show on 5/13-15 and talk to the experts, or stick to goldfish. Salt levels between 1 to 1.5 lbs/100 gallons will relieve the osmotic burden on your fish and won't harm the plants. Remember that you will need to replenish salt when you do water changes, but not when you replace evaporative loss. Do not use your salty runoff to water your garden unless you want a "mini-Sahara" where nothing grows. Testing intervals will vary with the season, the pond stocking density and feeding. At the height of the season when your fish are growing and being fed twice a day, testing two or three times a week is the minimum. Once a week feedings are okay early in the season when their metabolism is just beginning to tick over (water temp 50-55 degrees. Cheerios soaked in OJ and dried in a warm oven is best here. Daily light feedings with a good commercial food containing protein, fat and nutrients will ensure good health and optimum growth. Koi are not vegetarians! In the wild, carp are omnivores, and love tadpoles, fish eggs, insects, and crustaceans, as well as vegetation. Our koi adore Romaine lettuce, peas, grapefruit, oranges and watermelon.

3) At water temperatures below 55 degrees, the koi are largely shut down, both digestively and immunologically. Feeding them at that point will only harm them. Through the winter months, keeping an area of the pond ice-free is critical, to allow gas exchange. A high-capacity airstone placed shallow, within 6" of the surface, works well. The best solution incorporates a cover over the pond to afford protection from wind and flying winter crud.

(Answer courtesy Bob Passovoy)