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My husband and I live in Lyons and are
going to be putting in a new pond this year. We've had a pre-formed
pond from Sam's Club, that worked nicely for the past 5 years,
but we are now ready to move up in size, since we want a couple
more Koi and the one's we have are bigger now.
We're going back and forth with each other over whether or
not we should have a raised pond or not. I don't care too
much for a raised pond since I would like something more natural
looking. I know that to winter your fish outside the depth
needs to be below the frost level (18" sound right?). Now,
if it's a raised pond my thought is that it would still need
to be 18" below ground level. Or does it just 18" deep, like
my husband thinks?
Also, what kind of luck do people with ponds in our area have
with bog filtration? We brought in our hyacinth and water
lettuce for the winter, also, and I wonder if that's a good
choice in addition to a regular filter and skimmer set up.
Final question; if we winter our fish outside, heater or no
heater? I understand no heater, don't feed, don't break the
ice if any forms, shut off the waterfall etc. - is this accurate
info? I can't believe how much conflicting information is
out there. It gets confusing.
Any help we can get would be appreciated!
My first suggestion is that you join MPKS
and attend a few meetings and talk to a bunch of our members.
You may still be as confused at the finish, but you will have
had a lot of fun and met some really neat people. The next
thing you need to do is do the pond tour and get an idea of
the multiple solutions to the Midwest Pond Problem. If you
want to get a jump on the construction season, feel free to
visit our pond in River Forest. Even in winter, it is instructive.
We are home most weekends and are always happy to show off.
Now you need to read all of Mike White's articles on the website
and go through the FAQs. The answers to questions you have
not yet asked are there.
Okay, on to your questions:
1) Raised or not? - You have to
understand, I'm very biased on this subject. Our pond is raised
18 inches above grade, and we love it. The surround is weathered
Creta Stone lined with rammed backfill. At the point nearest
our patio, the earth packing is about 12 inches thick. Elsewhere
it is as much as 4 to 5 feet wide, allowing for decorative
and marginal plantings. The raised masonry allows us to sit
comfortably at the pond's edge and have our fish within easy
reach for hand feeding. We do not have to worry about runoff
from our lawn or our neighbor's property, The water level
above ground automatically assures prime on our pumps. Anybody
falling into our pond really has to work at it and can't claim
that they did not see it. It also bought us an additional
1000 gallons that we did not have to dig for!
2) Frost Line - Weather aside,
you need at least 4 feet of depth for happy and nicely-shaped
koi. Five feet is better, and any ponder you ask will tell
you that he wished he'd gone "just one foot further down"
when rebuilding his new pond. Deeper is better from a water
quality and fish health standpoint. Deep ponds have smaller
fluctuations of temperature on hot days and are much more
resistant to pH swings. Any pond deeper than 18-24 inches
needs to be served with a skimmer *and* a bottom drain, and
you need to talk to some knowlegable people without construction-type
axes to grind before you dig. For freeze-safety in this climate,
a minimum depth from the water surface of 36 inches is advisable.
Also a good idea is a preplanned and designed-in method of
covering the pond with leaf netting in the fall and plastic
in the winter. The netting reduces the amount of plant grundge
you have to pull off the bottom during fall cleanout, and
the plastic provides greenhouse effect to keep your pond protected
from the wind chill and maintain it largely ice-free. It also
gives your plantings a nice jump on the spring.
3) Bogs? - Pretty, and of some
help with filtration, but you need huge volumes of water to
get away with it. The only attractive bog-filtered pond I
know of is Bill Stepan's pond in Yorkville. It contains 30,000
gallons, and about 1/3 of it is in his bog filter at any one
time. Kevin Novack is also a proponent of bog filtration,
but his filter ponds are kinda ugly. If you want koi in any
number or size, you will have to employ bioconverters, mechanical
filters and probably other adjuncts. Come look at my stuff.
I don't have one of everything,(that would be Bry Bateman)
but I'm close to it!
4) Outside? All winter? - Sure,
and you don't need an expensive pond heater either. If you
cover the pond, all you need is a small oil-filled electric
radiator under the cover. As long as your water temp stays
around 36-38 degrees, your fish will manage the winter season
just fine. You need to maintain an area of the surface ice-free
to allow gas exchange, and the cover and a high-capacity air
pump/airstone arrangement with the stone set 1 foot under
the surface will work just fine. Your pumps should be off,
to allow the warmer water to stratify on the bottom. Your
fish will congregate there. If you do freeze over, the ice
must be *melted* through. Striking the ice to break it will
damage the fish's balance systems. Kinda like a concussion
to us.
Hope this helps. Come
visit. Ask questions!
Bob Passovoy
President
MPKS
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