I'm here in Illinois up north in Green Oaks, IL and I have a question. My Koi had babies late in the season and the three that I have are only about 2 inches at the most... So I would like to know - should I leave them in the pond outside for the winter, or should I bring them into the basement? I have moved my 100 gal quarantine tank from outside into the basement. And have everything setup and ready to go. Pump etc. What type of light would I need to put over the tank so that the babies can grow over the winter, I will also have some plants in the tank that I wanted to grow over the winter,, as well, Any help in the matter would be great not sure what to do. Grow lights or Fish lights? What does everyone do?

Also I have two frogs that I have brought early in the year, will they make it through the winter, I have a lined pond not mud?

Next question is that I have water hyacinth in my pond this year. They didn't do well at all this year. All my levels were fine, I do have well water, but that should be better for them? What should I do different for next season I even tried a difference place to buy them and they still turned brown leaved and didn't flower much at all?
(Added 11-10-05) —See reply.

I've got more than a few questions. I read with great interest the Q and A's and the articles by Mike White. I'm going to redo my front yard waterfall pond (no fish 4,000 gals) and my back yard pond now about 1,500 gals expanding to about 3,000 (10 Koi, 3 1ft and the rest 8in).

Back yard (Koi pond) I have a homemade upflow in the back that is fed from a skimmer. the pump I have is in the bottom of the skimmer and I think because I have an inefficient upflow (yes with lava rock!) the pump clogged to regularly for my tastes. The pond at this time is also just two feet deep. I intent to redig and get down to four feet this spring. I'm tired of being concerned that the Heron are going to find my back yard pond too. That is actually why I built the backyard pond. I have it very quiet with just the water from the upflow dumping right back into the pond--no water fall noise! I have a great waterfall in the front and in very plain view for all flying overhead and they sure did eat well!

#1 — Very good articles by Mike White! Bottom line what type of filtration should I good with. Mike says nothing is perfect, I'm leaning to the verticle pads with brushes? Seems to be the most efficient (although I know not perfect). What would you do? If this seems like the best, what brand? Where is the best place to purchase?

#2 — I was thinking of looking into becoming a contractor (Company name) to get better pricing. Is this even worthwhile? Are there better prices out there for contractors?

#3 — Another reason I was going to go to four feet deep was the oppurtunity to place a center drain. I hadn't done that and it sure seems to be worthwhile for overall circulation and filtration. Is it? Is punching a hole in the liner a risk in the Wisconsin climate at 4 ft? Something that is 15 ft by 5 ft should I go with two bottom drains at that length? Do the drains come with a plug or cork type seal for winter to keep the water out of the piping to prevent potenially bursting?

#4 — If I go with a center drain, what about a leaf basket in-line but outside of the pond to catch debris and make it easy to cleanout from the center drain run? If I go with a center drain, do I really need a skimmer? Wouldn't that center drain and leaf catcher really attract everything from the surface? or is that just not enough suction to retrieve everything?

#5 — Where best (prices) to get a liner? I'm going to have to get two! 45 mil?

Now for the front pond! Sorry for the long questions but I'm really trying to plan my spring repairs now and be comfortable with a good plan!

#1 — I need to place a new liner in the front as well. The front of the pond is only 15 feet away from the edge of the road. I don't want the front yard pond to be more than two feet deep. Parents and their Kids have a way of walking up and I don't want drowning to be an issue. I've certainly seen many times that just the younger kids walk up by themselves as well. Mike White recommends oval for the best circulation and I can reform it a bit to get that shape. The form will be about 15ft oval or rounded.

#2 — the front pond pump is 7,000 gal an hour. It's a great waterfall!! That is a great amount of suction from a center drain! Again I was thinking that will that amound of suction into a center drain would I really need skimmers?

#3 — I certainly don't want to run a second pump for filtration. How would I do the filtration. Tap from the center drain with an in-line filter at about 2,000 gallons and then have that reroute back into the waterfall as well. I sure don't want to run the 7,000 24hours. Or, should I just plan on running a second pump that 24/7 and continue to timer the 7,000?

#4 — Do you think two center drains or would one be enough in a 15 ft round? I would go from about 12ins at the edge to about 24 to 30 inchs max sloped to the center. I was thinking of lily pads to keep it as shaded as possible. It's pretty much full sun in the front.
(Added 1-30-05) —See Bob Passovoy's reply.
(Added 2-19-05) —See Mike White's reply.

(Part 1) I am taking the winter months to plan a remodeling of my homemade filtration system. I'm considering switching to bio balls from lava rock because I feel it has not been providing the maximum filtration. Can you provide any insight into if the size of the bio balls used will make a difference (1" or 1.25") or will it end up providing the same surface area because of additional smaller balls in the same filter space? Additionally, approximately how many I should use (I know there has to be some sort of formula).

The demographics on my pond are approximately:

• ~5700 total gallons
• ~5125 in main pool for koi and goldfish (remaining gallons in collecting pools and stream)
• 6-8 larger sized fish (ranging in size 10" - 14")
• 8-10 medium sized fish (6" - 8")
• 8-10 smaller sized fish (1" - 5")
  
  

QUESTION 1 -- How long would it take those babyfish to kill off my pond (i.e. other fish, plants), if I didn't do anything?

What I did to solve this problem (this might have been rash) was to catch a large-mouth bass of just-legal size (not big enough to eat the parental fish, although I have a couple of frogs I'm worried about) and introduce him to the pond.

QUESTIONS 2/3 -- Just how rash was that? Have I endangered my domestics?

The fry are gone, and I mean GONE after a week. My domestic fish, even the koi, who definitely has weight on the bass, if not length, are nervous and hiding behind the plants. They will come out and feed, but it takes them some time of me sitting there with the food floating. I have not seen the bass since I introduced him.

It seems obvious that I need to get the wild guy out, just to make the others happy. I thought about keeping him and giving him live bait for food, but that now seems like not such a good idea. But it does make me curious what other pond gardeners have done to control their goldfish population. I read the recommendation to pump into a pool, move your desireables, cull, etc. etc., but it seems just as stressfull to the fish and the plants as what I've done.

Context, observations, beratement, all would be welcome.

QUESTION 4 -- Is there an organization you are aware of that is closer to me than yours? are you a local or regional group?

majda (added 9-25-04)—See reply.

Hi All. I saw your email address in the Midwest Koi and Pond Society web site. We are definitely at the "low end" of the intensity of Water Gardens, but have a problem this year that is threatening out entire population of Koi and Goldfish. We have Furunculosis (Hole In Side) based upon my very limited knowledge of koi diseases, and due to observations off various pictures of diseases off the web.

Briefly, it must have been due to the difficulties in keeping our water quality... it has been a large battle all year. No new fish introductions this year whatsoever. I've had horrible problem with Alge (Green water), as well as Ph fluctuations. Amonia and Disolved Nitrites have not been a problem this year (For the most part).

I have been testing (Ph, Salt, Amonia , etc.) and attempting to make non-radical corrections all year. including ~ 75% water replacement if extreme levels were observed. We have two outdoor "ponds" of roughly 125 gallons each.

We have been treating with "Tea Extract" bought from a local store, and running our salt content towards the "High Side" of recommended levels. This in some cases appears to be helping (appearing to reduce some of the ulcers", and most of the fish affected are extremely active in normal activity, however seem to have severely reduced appetites (floating food).

We have had fry this year in both tanks, with the larges fry now showing the disease. Our goldfish and koi (All about 6-10") are showing signs of the disease now, with at least 3 severe cases. ANY SUGGESTIONS on treatment (specifically in this region of the country... temperature, etc.) would be appreciated.

Since we are small scale hobbyists, we are not interested in "Expensive" treatment, and would put down the entire stock if there are no hopes, however most of the fish have been with us for about 4 years, and hence the request at any thoughts to save them.

Thanks in advance for any ideas. Please drop me an email to both my work email and home if any of you have time to respond.(Added 8/17/04) —See reply.

Hello, I've set up my first pond and it is a small one. 100 gal. I'm having a problem with the green algae (pea soup). I've been using Pond Care Algae Fix at times double dose with little or no results. I've tried the water changes from doing only 10% to doing 60%. I do have some live plants with no fertilizer spikes.

The filter is one that can handle up to 450 gal. at one ft. high and is cleaned every 3-5 days. The fish are doing fine but I would like to see them more than at feeding time. I used to feed 2-3 times a day (very small amounts but have cut back to once a day ( larger amount). The pond is in mostly sun but now I have been putting up an umbrella to cut back on the sunlight to only late in the day. Still I can't see more than 3" into the pond.

I am on city water. Geneva, IL. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Please (Added 8/3/04) —See reply.

...First, why can't I keep any of my water plants alive? I have a filtration system that has the regular old white filter and a charcoal filter.

Second, I have been using algicide blocks(cubes), yet I still have tons of algae.

And finally, I love my backyard pond (and fish), but I just don't think I know enough about it to keep it healthy. Can you suggest a good book to get me going on the right track as far as learning the basics (i.e., how often to empty and re-fill, when to add salt, etc.)?

I don't know if you need the stats on the pond itself, but, just in case: ~4ft deep (with 3 shelves around the perimeter at ~2ft deep), 3x5ft (WxL). It sits in FULL SUN (hence the algae problem). —See reply.

Have a couple of questions for the Newsletter I've been dying to ask.

A. Why are partial water changes recommended for ponds, especially since a fair amount evaporates and if you use a regulator, it's replaced a little at a time on a regular basis? Does the need for water changes depend on how well the pond is oxygenated, e.g., whether you have a waterfall and fountains operating?

B. How often should a pond be emptied, washed down, and refilled? If you have a stable pond, and clear water, does this throw your pond out of whack and create problems with restabilizing the pond?—See reply.