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Bob,
Thank you for the insight. Just what I expected from you (based
on what those have said). However, now you have me wanting
more...
After some thought, I have realized that perhaps my problem
with algae (string in stream and a fine dust-like algae on
the bottom of pool) is not the filtration but rather the material
causing the wicked chain...excess food, decaying material
like leaves and fish waste.
If I have algae growing and clear water, could increasing
my filtration actually cause a bigger problem by allowing
more bacteria to take up residence in the bio filter producing
higher nitrogen levels and therefore creating a greater algae
utopia?
I'm sure I am missing something but it appears that the fish
(both koi and goldfish) sure have enjoyed this environment
because they have successfully spawned numerous times during
the second year of having the pond. Many ponds that I have
seen on the tour (and just visiting) may have a more algae
free appearance (being able to see no algae on the bottom
or on the rocks), however should I count my blessings (and
those of the parent fish) and leave well enough alone?
Now I'm getting confused. This is such a chicken/egg dilemma.
Please help me make more sense.
Rob
Rob,
Algae of any type is an inevitable consequence of biofiltration.
The sequence goes: food + fish= ammonia; ammonia + biofiltration
= nitrite + more biofiltration = nitrate = fertilizer.
The key to fish health in any closed-system
pond is excellent water quality. The bigger and more efficient
your bioconverter, the better your fish will do. Algae per
se is not a water quality issue unless it gets out of hand.
All algae are fed by the nitrates produced by bioconversion,
and we characteristically deal with two broad types; microscopic
floating algae and thread or hair algae.
Algae control falls into four broad categories:
Poisons, mechanical, electrical and competitive. Most ponders
use a combination of the last three.
Poisons(or algaecides) are available from
most pond supply outfits and come with inflated claims regarding
their effectiveness and safety. These are all lies. Most of
these algaecides not only do not work, but also build up over
time to fish-killing toxic levels. They are *not* recommended.
Mechanical removal is simple, and applies
to hair algae, which will grow wherever your fish can't reach.
The easiest tool for this is a biff brush on a pole. Weekly
brushing of clogged areas keeps them under control. A plecostomus
(armored catfish) will also keep the hair algae down, and
will grow quite large in an outdoor pond. They must be removed
and brought inside for the winter.
Electrical removal applies to microscopic
algae and is basically a powerful ultraviolet light source
placed into the piping just after the last set of filters.
It sterilizes any algae that goes past it and prevents the
"pea soup" appearance caused by exuberant algae growth.
Biological control affects both hair and
microscopic algae. It is simply as much other vegetation,
both marginal and aquatic, as you can fit in. When mature,
it soaks up a lot of the nitrates, denying it to the algae.
Microscopic algae are bad; an algae bloom
can sequester enough dissolved oxygen at night to smother
your fish. Hair algae are merely a nuisance. You can deal
with it.
Bob Passovoy
President
MPKS
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