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Actually, I have a few questions...

First, why can't I keep any of my water plants alive? I have a filtration system that has the regular old white filter and a charcoal filter.

Second, I have been using algicide blocks(cubes), yet I still have tons of algae.

And finally, I love my backyard pond (and fish), but I just don't think I know enough about it to keep it healthy. Can you suggest a good book to get me going on the right track as far as learning the basics (i.e., how often to empty and re-fill, when to add salt, etc.)?

I don't know if you need the stats on the pond itself, but, just in case: ~4ft deep (with 3 shelves around the perimeter at ~2ft deep), 3x5ft (WxL). It sits in FULL SUN (hence the algae problem).


Oohhhhkay. Let's start with the pond itself.

Small footprint, but nice and deep, 3x5x4=60cu. ft.,multiply by 7.48gal/cu.ft=449 gallons

You describe a "regular old white" filter, and I'm going to assume that this is filter mat. The rest is charcoal, which is actually useless in the outdoor pond setting.

Your problems with the algae tell me that you've got inadequate biofiltration for your fish load. Algae eats ammonia, and there's enough around to support it, which means your fish are making it faster than your filter is getting rid of it. You did not mention which kind of algae was troubling you, but from the desperation between the lines and the fact that you did not mention "pea soup", I'll bet that you are battling hair algae, also known as "blanket weed". You have made a classic beginner's mistake, in that you have read the pretty labels on the pond chemical box and believed them. Quite frankly, there is no commercial chemical that can take out hair algae and leave everything else standing.

You describe algicide "cubes" so I'm assuming you are (and have been) using some chemical plant poison to control the problem. As far as I know, there is no chemical additive that is selective for hair algae only. Your aquatics are dying because you are poisoning them with the pond algaecide, and they are way more sensitive to the poison than the algae is.

There have been any number of products on the market purported to control hair algae, and the only one I've ever seen even come close without killing off everything else in the pond is barley straw. It can be bought in small bales, and seems to work (albeit slowly) as an inhibitor, without harming other pond plants or critters. It's main drawback is that it stains the water with brownish dissolved organics, and if you do not have a way to clear these, you can only get rid of the stain with repeated water changes.

Most experienced pond and koi keepers do not use chemicals in their ponds, unless they are dealing with a parasite with a free-swimming section to its life cycle, or with a delayed incubation period on the eggs. About the only commonly used chemical is salt.

For your particular problem, the best short-term solution would be to get rid of the worst of the hair algae with a toilet bowl brush, and then do a series of large volume water changes to get rid of as much of the algaecide as you can. If you then re-establish your population of greedy water plants and pond marginals (reeds, water mint and cress, pennywort, lilies, water lettuce and hyacinth, etc.) they will sop up enough of the nitrate to keep the hair algae growth slowed down to the point where your koi will keep it trimmed down with their grazing. (Pleckys are good for this too, but have to be brought in over the winter.)

Long-term? Upgrade your filters!

Much more detailed discussions of filtration, salt and other subjects are available at the click of a mouse in the FAQs and Articles sections of the website. Rather than running out and spending bucks on books, you may be better off (if you live in the Chicago Metro area) joining MPKS and using our extensive library of books and tapes for free.

 

Regards,

Bob Passovoy
President
Midwest Pond and Koi Society


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